Mezcal Exploratory Trip: Oaxaca, Santiago Matatlán, Volume 1
Dadivoso, 5 Estrellas & Desde la Eternidad
At this point in our trip, some pluses and minuses were coming into view. Minus: the very hard mattress and torn sheets at our AirBnb. Plus: the very nice courtyard there. Minus: certain disquieting plumbing problems. Plus: nice, modern kitchen. Minus: our guide from last year was unavailable. Plus: my friend Mark Satterfield found René Cabrera Arroyo of Las Bugambilias Tours.
René was great. It didn’t take long for him to realize, as experienced palenque fans, we really didn’t require the usual, “This is an horno. It’s where the agave is roasted…” So he and his driver were there to take us from spot to spot, but it was also good to have him curate some of our stops. We don’t always need that, but in Santiago Matatlán, billed as “The World Capital of Mezcal,” it indeed came in handy. I can’t be certain about this, but from my checking it looks like there are approximately 38 palenques there. Ain’t nobody got time for all dat!
Dadivoso Mezcal
Our first Matatlán stop was at the palenque operated by Rigoberto Hernandez known as Dadivoso Mezcal. Dadivoso means generous, and this 31 year old hustler indeed shared several of his mezcales with us.
Last year my Mezcal Maniac friends and I went to the palenque of an 83 year old maestro. He had amazing, memorable stuff for us to try, but I can’t imagine even asking him if he’d WhatsApp me when he had something new, drive many kilometers away and ship garrafones to me here in San Miguel de Allende. As I mentioned previously, when I find a nice, younger mezcalero, I’m a little more comfortable proposing such a rapport.
When I broached the subject with Rigoberto, he was clear that he’d be happy to work with me in that way. And when I asked if he minded sending stuff via my favorite Mexican shipping company, Castores, he shrugged and pointed behind himself with his thumb. Sure enough, in the distance but just over his shoulder was the Matatlán Castores location! Now that’s what I call convenient!
Another observation… As is the case in any sample of humankind, some mezcaleros are very outgoing, warm and eager to share with visitors, while others are a bit more reserved. Rigoberto had a kind facial expression, but it struck me that he was quite energetic, always moving, a bit more “down to business.” I learned that he was making 2,000 liters of Espadín per month—in addition to some silvestre mezcales. I think that’s quite a bit for a rather small palenque!
So we had to try his Espadín. He had just made 1,000 liters for a client, and he told us it had an ABV of 40. I’m open to trying anything, but normally this is just too light for my serious mezcal drinking friends and I. That said, we tried it and thought it was quite good.
My wife Cecilia has found that a lower grado mezcal is usually best in her case, so I suggested we buy a nice amount of this one especially for her. But just then Rigoberto let us know he had a 45% ABV version of this Espadín. Cecilia’s eyes widened and she said, “Get that one!” Jajaja. We tried it, and indeed it was even better. [This just in: I’m in the process of bottling it today, and according to my hydrometer it’s actually 47%. Even better, huh?]
I’d been lucky enough to witness some before, but my friends were pretty geeked to see Rigoberto’s tahona in operation. The horse’s partner in this crushing effort was Señor Eugenio Hernandez who lives in San Baltazar Guelavila, and who has worked in mezcal for 42 years. Fred remarked that Eugenio and the horse appeared to have had some history. It seemed they moved in sync as if sharing a psychic connection.
Rigoberto also let us try his delicious Barrilito, Mexcanito, Pechuga—and his Barrilito/Mexicanito ensamble. My friends snapped up some of that.
As far as I’m concerned, we started this day off right by stopping by Dadivoso Mezcal, and I look forward to the possibility of more great stuff from Rigoberto.
5 Estrellas
Our second stop in Santiago Matatlán was Palenque 5 Estrellas where 29 year old Lorenzo Martinez greeted us. Really friendly, young guy. And there was a bonus: they were just about to toss some Espadín piñas into their horno!
It was a beautiful, sunny day, and music was in the air. Many times I’ve imagined myself chopping piñas; it’s got to be hard work! But, and I’ve noticed this before, those piñas seem to crack apart a little easier than I’d have thought. I suppose with all of that juice inside, it softens them up so that it only takes a couple of whacks. Also, I’m pretty sure I’d widen my stance so as to eliminate the possibility of slipping and chopping my foot in half. But these guys were good.
Lorenzo let us try some fabulous mezcal. I especially enjoyed his Cuixe. He also had an ensamble of 5 different agaves: Tepextate, Mexicano, Tobalá, Madrecuixe and Espadín. Very nice!
This is a good sized operation; apparently they work with a number of other producers. Cecilia bought a couple bottles of their agave based gin, which was nice.
Mezcal Desde la Eternidad
I thought our next stop was a great find, but it was sad to hear the father of the family and maestro of the palenque, Juan Hernandez Mendes, had died in 2020. We paid our respects.
It appears the whole family is involved there at Mezcal Desde la Eternidad. Hortensia is the mama, and she was all over the palenque. Daughters Lidia and Nayeli seem equally involved. Nayeli talked to Cecilia for quite awhile, selling her some bottles of a very powerful herbal extract. And son Valente has taken over as maestro.
I first tried their Cuixe/Espadín ensamble, which was very special from the first sip. But interestingly, when I tried their Espadín alone, I found it very similar to the ensamble. I snapped up quite a lot of it, and already some local friends here in San Miguel are enjoying it.
While walking by the horno, I noticed a nice big pile of Tobalá piñas. This scene kinda captivated me. So I handed my phone to Fred and asked him to snap a few shots. That’s where my Mezcal Maniac featured photo came from.
One of the silvestre ensambles they had in the store was of Jabali and Tepextate, and it was so special I had to buy a bottle. I’ll be looking for an opportunity to sip on this at an appropriate occasion sometime this year. But if I don’t find that occasion? Next year then.
I really didn’t need to go to more palenques in Santiago Matatlán after these three, but I’m very glad I did. Stay tuned yet again for another article on them—coming soon. Oh, and just a reminder: if you’re going to be in San Miguel de Allende anytime soon or in the future, feel free to shoot me a message. I’d love to meet up!
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