Keepin' On in Sola de Vega

Two More Palenques, WAY More Mezcal!

After leaving Ángel Cruz Robles 3000 Noches palenque we had a fair distance to our next stop. I discovered this one through a young man in Oaxaca who had sold me some mezcal last year that was really nice. He had told me he his cousin was working with a maestro mezcalero in Sola de Vega; so previously I’d connected with that cousin and received a map locator to his location.

Armando Rodriquez’ Palenque

Upon arriving, we learned that the maestro of the palenque was named Armando Rodriquez. Another lovely, secluded palenque—and lots of stuff to try!

Mezcal palenque of Armando Rodriguez in Sola de Vega

There were just a few palenqueros there, but it was pretty bustling! They brought out a Coyote, Jabalí, Mexicano, Arroqueño, Tepextate, a Tobalá aged five years in glass and another Tepextate aged 7 years in glass. They were solid, legit distillations ranging from 46 to 50% ABV.

Barb Shaw and I enjoying our mezcal and a sit-down!

I’d mentioned something rather surprising happened on this trip. Here’s what I meant…

I was first put in contact with the young man who worked here in December, told him of our plans, how we’d like to visit the palenque and perhaps purchase some mezcal from them. Then there were multiple other text conversations confirming our visit, both long in advance, a few days in advance—and when on our way from 3000 Noches. But although they gave us plenty of stuff to sip while there…they told us they had nothing for sale. 🧐

I do believe that’s the first time that has happened on any of my palenque visits. They were certainly very pleasant and welcoming—and don’t get me wrong: I wasn’t offended by this. After all we went to ELEVEN palenques on this Oaxacan trip. So if anything this was a kindness to my mezcal budget! Gracias I guess?

Isidro Damián Gonzales

The young man had previously suggested we go to another nearby mezcal producer: Isidro Damián Gonzales. After getting his WhatsApp number and making his acquaintance, I learned that he wasn’t great at navigating internet apps. He just told me while at Armando’s place we could let him know—and, being close by, he’d just come and get us then.

Palenque of Isidro Damián Gonzales in Sola de Vega

Señor Isidro is part of a multi-generational—yet broken—lineage of mezcal producers, his grandfather being one, but his father not so much. He is an official producer for the Mezcal Koch brand.

Isidro Damián Gonzalez’ clay pot stills

Isidro and his wife were very hospitable to us for our late afternoon visit, and the mezcal was especially good. He let us sample a Tobalá, Coyote and Jabalí.

As I’ve often related, identifying the best mezcales can be a challenging task on an adventure like this one. You’re out there from morning till night, you’re sipping distillation after distillation, and while your mouth is still enjoying the mezcal, this onslaught of flavors and characters has been somewhat desensitizing. So, with certain exceptions, I generally try not to pretend I’m in full possession of my taste buds—and certainly not when I’m on my 3rd palenque. You really just have to do your best to identify those options that seem to stick out, bring them back home, sit with them awhile and then come to your conclusions.

So it’s now been over a month since I’ve been home. I bought four different clay distilled mezcales, and I’m prepared to render my final judgment:

My favorite olla de barro of this trip is Maestro Isidro Damián Gonzalez’ Coyote.

I think I’m coming around to why all you clay hounds are always glowing about them. Some of them have what might be perceived as a softness; the sharpness being replaced by an earthy essence, rendering many quite different from their copper cousins.

Maestro Mezcalero Isidro Damián Gonzales

My greatest regret of our Sola de Vega trip? Not having the time to go and see the folks at Mezcal Cruz de Diamantes. My contact, Marlen, had been the most accessible and communicative of any of them, but because of the late hour and our need to get home before it was too late, we just couldn’t do it, and sent our regrets. Judging from the report I recently received from Mezcal Maniac Trey Cannon, “regret” is the right word, as Maestro Evelio Santos apparently makes some delicious mezcal.

And so it went: this Sunday, February 12th, in Sola de Vega, Oaxaca. I won’t forget this trip: the farthest palenques I’d ever been from the city. But don’t touch that dial! We had more mezcal regions to explore in subsequent days.

I hope you get a chance to go visit some of these masterful producers for yourself sometime. And if your travels take you through San Miguel de Allende in central Mexico? That’d be great too. Shoot me a message, we’ll meet up and sip mezcal!