It’s been four months since I’ve updated Mezcal Maniac. On the one hand, I hate that, but on the other? I’m pretty sure you folks aren’t all broken up about it. 😉 The fact is my wife and I, friends Barb & Fred, Surendra & Carolyn, Doc & Lorraine—and my buddy Alastair will be hitting a bunch of palenques all week.
And we’re not screwin’ around!
I’ve shown some friends the incredibly detailed agenda—live on Google Docs—for our trip. A few have been surprised at the detail. Every palenque named will link you to some kind of information about them. There are map photos to give us the general idea of where we’ll be traveling—but also Google map locator links to each spot—with travel times noted between them. Options for lunch, ideas for our off days, etc.
When I showed it to my daughter, she said it reminded her of something the character from “A Beautiful Mind” might have created in an especially manic schizophrenic episode.
I’ll leave out all the details, but we’re planning TWO days in my favorite mezcal region: Logoche. I’ve loved their distillations for 10 years. What is it about that spot? I asked this of El Mitch, owner of Casa Murciélago in both Mexico City and here in San Miguel de Allende. I was honored to have him—along with business partner Vaquero, his local bar manager, the fantastic René and the latter’s lovely lady friend Luisiana—to my house for a tasting this past Monday night.
“I tell the producers in Miahuatlán they are cheating,” he said. His claim is that the land there is so rich with minerals, even their water tastes like good mezcal! 🤣
The challenge with Logoche is that it’s about 2.5 hours away from Oaxaca City, where we’ve always stayed during our trips. So this time, after establishing ourselves at the Airbnb, we’ll head to Logoche for Day 1, but stay the night in Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz—only 30 minutes away—instead. Then we zip back to Logoche for Day 2 the next morning.
I hear the motel isn’t exactly breathtaking, but my friend Corvus stayed there last week, telling me it’s “adecuate.” And if it means I get to visit 7 Logoche palenques instead of the usual 2? I will deal!
We’ll also visit some palenques in the first region I ever visited: San Baltazar Guelavila. First stop will be with Daniel and Cosme Hernández who do a lot of work with Convite. Also, since our friend Barb has enjoyed Mezcal Los Ocotales, we’ll be going to see them too. Maybe one or two more.
I’m really excited to hit San Baltazar Chichicapam though! I hear so much about this area, but it’ll be the first time we swing through there. You guessed it: Berta, Fortunato and more.
In fact we have appointments with 14 palenques this coming week. It’s an ambitious timetable, but I’m up to it! And if that weren’t enough, (chuckle), I also have three backup palenques—just in case we have more time on our hands than we think. (A scenario that has never occurred.)
Don’t worry: we are again using Ciro Villa as our driver. He already has our Mezcal Psycho Agenda and says he’s eager to see us again. Last year Ciro scored big with the maestros, as they typically gift such drivers with bottles of mezcal. No doubt he’ll be able to restock his bar again!
A few months back I started working with Manuel, an outstanding Spanish teacher here in San Miguel de Allende. After 9.5 years in Mexico, I guess I got tired of putting off improving mi Español. Along with the work we’ve been doing, I’ve created 17 “lessons,” which include Pimsleur-style, listen/repeat audio classes. (A perk of being a voiceover talent with recording studio.) For Lesson 13, I worked with Manuel to hone some of my palenque-speak…
How long is it fermented? ¿Cuánto tiempo se fermenta?
How do you know when it’s done cooking? ¿Cómo se sabe cuando se termina de cocinar?
How often is the tepache mixed? ¿Cada cuándo se mezcla el tepache?
My wife reminds me that there’s the “remembering how to ask questions” part, but there’s also the “understanding them when they answer” part. I tell her that’s what I have her for. 😘
Next thing I’m pondering just a couple of days before our departure? What exactly is the right right way to prepare for a week of mezcal overconsumption? Is mezcal abstinence the prudent course? Or should a proper pre-palenque workout rightly include some Kidney Curls or Liver Lunges? 🧐
The truth is, since my indulgence with Mitch, Vaquero and René? I’m definitely taking it very easy until Oaxaca. Remember: I’ve got 14 damn palenques to hit!
And you’d better believe I’ll be documenting them right here.
Could you share your spreadsheet? Can’t wait to read about your adventures.