I may have written about this before; if so, apologies for being repetitive. But when I started getting serious about mezcal in 2014 to 2016, I was surprised that in San Miguel de Allende specifically, it wasn’t easy to find many Mexicans who were big fans of it. When I’d offer it to Mexicanos, a significant share of the time they’d grimace a bit. One gentleman told me, “Oh no, señor. Peligroso!”
Dangerous? Really? Not an uncommon response. It’s true that plenty of gringos have the same reaction, but it just seemed more of them had become fans. I know SMA has the reputation of being an expat town, but the estimates I’ve seen is that we might be about 10% of the population. The result is that those trying to start mezcal bars here just didn’t last.
It’s now clear those days are over.
You may have seen my article last week about El Carajo, a new mezcal spot in town. A friend and I went last week and enjoyed it. But then someone mentioned there was one more: Casa Murciélago, a bar in the Doce 18 building on Relox in San Miguel’s centro. So Cecilia and I figured a Saturday visit was inevitable.
We met Mezcal Maniac friends Barb and Fred there at 5pm. René was our bartender, and he is clearly quite engaged by this universe. It’s quite a small space, but it appeared they had about 50 mezcal options spread here and there throughout. As I perused their menu something immediately jumped out: a Cucharillo/Tepextate ensamble. When I mentioned it, René lit up: “Wow. That’s my boss’ favorite!”
The shot prices at Casa Murciélago are about what I’d have expected. Generally more than what one might find in Oaxaca, but nothing outrageous for San Miguel. Further, in the fine Oaxacan tradition, you’re able to choose either a one or two ounce shot, which lets you sample more options without getting hammered. But this night they were featuring tastes of any 3 distillations for a nice rate, so we all did that.
#1: Catorce Fuerzas, Tepextate/Cucharillo Ensamble
This beauty was made by Catorce Fuerzas in one of my favorite regions: Miahuátlan, Oaxaca. It featured that earthy aspect I’ve become so fond of from distillations made there and came in at 50% ABV. I definitely tasted that Cucharillo (Desert Spoon/Sotol) flavor that surrounds each sip, but I could detect no contribution from the Tepextate. That’s not usual: Tepextates normally stick out very easily. For me it was more reminiscent of a Madrecuixe. But who cares? It was positively delicious!
#2: Las Potrancas, Sotol
Yes, I’m aware I was at a mezcal bar. And, yes, I’m aware that the first two things I ordered were an ensamble that included Sotol followed by a full-on Sotol. I know. I love ‘em both. I’m good with it.
This one was my pick of the evening. This product from Las Potrancas was absolutely banging! The label read 45%, but I wouldn’t have been surprised if it were higher. Fantastically full-flavored with that dusty character similar to other sotoles I’ve had from Madera, Chihuahua. If you go, I wouldn’t skip this one.
#3: Kuiñi Xa’a, Espadín con Mole
A flavored mezcal; seriously? Yes, I did it, and I’m not ashamed. I asked René what he recommended, and this is what he produced: Kuiña Xa’a, which means “Marks of Jaguar,” is a producer from Puebla. I’d always heard there were some nice Pechugas featuring the subtle taste of mole. And this one was quite nice, very pleasant.
A few others came out among our bunch: some okay, others very nice.
Only open for a week, it was clear that René was getting the feel for things in the new place. Suffice it to say, for any Mezcal Maniacs currently in—or passing through San Miguel de Allende—Casa Murciélago is worthy of a visit!
So not bad, huh? This town now has some substantial mezcal bar options, and coming soon: also that night we were invited to check out another new spot in centro, which (among many other things) will include a Wine and Mezcal club. They’re set to open on May 1st; I look forward to checking it out.
And while you’re here, don’t forget to message me: we’d be happy to sync up with you and even put on a tasting at our place. Looking forward to it!
Great, I will let you know when I am in the area. Thanks
I had mezcal many years ago while visiting CDMX. It was the most interesting drink, we drank till 4am singing and having a great time and then slept very little before having to go out for the day. To my surprise, I had no hangover and my energy was decent for me, even at that time I was not a spring chicken. Have not had it in awhile but I am planning to visit SMA this summer. Thanks for the stories, I look forward to finding these places and trying the drinks.